Buying a used camper: what to inspect, in order
A used van or motorhome hides its worst problems behind paperwork and panels most buyers never check. Here is the inspection order, what a damp reading actually means, and the paper trail that should exist before money changes hands.
Paperwork before panels
The strongest checks on a used camper happen before anyone opens a door. A seller who cannot produce the paperwork below is not automatically hiding something, but the absence shifts risk onto the buyer — and should shift the price.
- V5C registration certificate (UK) or equivalent — confirm the seller's name and address match, and check it for the DVLA watermark and against the anti-theft serial ranges DVLA publishes
- Conversion declaration — evidence the vehicle's body type was formally reclassified (in the UK, DVLA's motor caravan conversion checklist, form V1006), since a van still registered as a goods vehicle can affect insurance, tax class and low-emission-zone exemptions
- Gas certification — a current gas safety certificate from a registered engineer (Gas Safe in the UK); gas work on an LPG system is never a DIY job and a missing certificate means the system's condition is simply unknown
- Electrical documentation — ideally an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) alongside habitation-check records, since these cover the fixed 12V/230V installation rather than just confirming appliances switch on
- Habitation-check history — a full, dated record of annual checks, not just the most recent one
The inspection order: outside in
- Exterior seals, seams and panel joints — the places water actually gets in, around windows, roof lights, doors and roof fittings
- Damp-meter readings at the standard points — panels, floor, around windows and roof lights (see the damp meter, explained)
- Habitation systems — gas (leak test, regulator, hoses), 12V/230V electrics (RCD, leisure battery, sockets), water system (pump, tanks, toilet), ventilation
- Bodywork and floor for delamination or soft spots — usually the late-stage sign of water ingress that went unaddressed
- Vehicle roadworthiness test status — separately from all of the above; see the distinction below
This is roughly the order an AWS-approved workshop works through in a full habitation check, and it is worth following even on a private viewing before paying for a professional check — it surfaces obvious problems early and tells you which vehicles are worth paying for a proper inspection.
What the damp reading means — and doesn't
Why a missing habitation-check history is a price question, not just a paperwork gap
A documented annual habitation check is more than a peace-of-mind record. Manufacturers commonly tie a long water-ingress warranty — often 10 years — to a documented annual check, so a gap in the history is not neutral: it can mean the warranty has already lapsed, regardless of the vehicle's actual age. A used camper with a full, unbroken habitation-check history is carrying less risk than an identical-looking vehicle with gaps, even if both currently pass a damp-meter test — and that difference belongs in the negotiation, not just in the small print. See habitation check, explained for what the check itself covers, and approved workshop scheme, explained for how UK checks are accredited.
Roadworthiness test vs habitation check: not the same inspection
A current MOT (UK), TÜV (Germany), ITV (Spain) or contrôle technique (France) certificate says the base vehicle — brakes, tyres, lights, emissions, structural safety of the chassis — passed its national roadworthiness test. None of these tests look at damp, gas, habitation electrics or water systems. A van can have a fresh, valid roadworthiness certificate and a lapsed or nonexistent habitation-check history at the same time — the two are independent, and a used-camper buyer needs both, not one standing in for the other.
Key takeaways
- Demand paperwork before viewing: V5C/registration, conversion declaration, gas certification, electrical documentation (EICR where available), and a full habitation-check history.
- Inspect in order: exterior seals, damp-meter readings, habitation systems, bodywork/floor, then the vehicle's separate roadworthiness test status.
- A damp-meter reading up to ~15% is a trade norm, not a legal threshold — treat higher readings as a prompt to investigate, not an automatic fail.
- A gap in the habitation-check history is a price and risk issue: manufacturers commonly tie a 10-year water-ingress warranty to a documented annual check.
- A roadworthiness test (MOT/TÜV/ITV/contrôle technique) and a habitation check are two separate inspections — a pass on one says nothing about the other.
Sources
What this page is based on — every source is verified and links out so you can check it yourself.
- Verified / official
- Provisional
- Out of date
- GOV.UK — Check a used vehicle you're buying
- GOV.UK — Converting a vehicle into a motor caravan (motor home)
- Gas Safe Register — gas safety for caravans & motorhomes
- Approved Workshop Scheme — habitation checks (NCC · The Caravan and Motorhome Club · The Camping and Caravanning Club)
- NCC (National Caravan Council) — UK trade body
- HabCheck — what is a habitation check (AWS-approved workshop)